How to Spot Authentic Handmade Clothing in the Marrakech Medina

The souks of Marrakech are full of colourful caftans and djellabas. Some are true handmade pieces, made by artisans in the Medina; others are machine-made copies produced in large quantities. They may look similar on the hanger, but the difference in quality — and in how long they last — is huge. Here is how to tell them apart.

1. Look closely at the sfifa

The sfifa is the braid that runs along the neckline and the front. A handmade sfifa is braided from silk or rayon threads and sewn on with small stitches; it feels slightly raised and has tiny irregularities that give it life. A machine version is often a flat printed or woven ribbon glued or stitched in one straight machine line.

2. Check the buttons

Real aakad buttons are knotted by hand from thread. They are firm, round, slightly irregular, and each one has its own loop on the other side. Plastic buttons or buttons that all look perfectly identical are a sign of mass production.

3. Turn the piece inside out

This is the best test. A handmade caftan is carefully finished inside: seams are clean, the braid is sewn through with neat stitches, and a lining is often present on quality pieces. Messy seams, glue marks and loose threads suggest a rushed, industrial product.

4. Feel the fabric

Good crêpe falls heavily and does not crease easily. Quality velvet is dense and soft. Very thin, shiny or stiff fabrics are rarely used by serious artisans. Don’t hesitate to touch — in a good boutique, it is expected.

5. Look at the embroidery

Hand embroidery (tarz, randa or beadwork) is slightly irregular and shows on the back as a network of threads. Machine embroidery is perfectly uniform and often has a stiff backing on the inside.

6. Be realistic about the price

A handmade caftan represents many hours — sometimes weeks — of work. If a “handmade” caftan costs the same as a T-shirt, it is not handmade. On the other hand, a high price is not always a guarantee: use the checks above.

7. Ask questions

An honest seller is happy to tell you who made the piece, how long it took and whether it can be adjusted. The best boutiques can also make a piece to your measurements — something only an atelier that really works by hand can offer.

Come and see for yourself

We welcome visitors in our boutique in the Laksour neighbourhood of the Medina. We will show you the difference between handmade and machine-made, explain each technique and let you try on our pieces — no pressure. And if you want to learn more first, read how a handmade caftan is made.

Visit our boutique →